SCUBA

SCUBA: acronym for self contained underwater breathing apparatus

While some scientists argue vehemently that we at one point emerged from the water onto the land. Regardless, we have always been lured into the deep, towards the darkness and mystery, towards the mythical creatures only whispered about, but most importantly, towards a world within the world we call earth, which we know little about.

To dive, providing ourselves with the much needed oxygen, devoid of gravitational forces from the terra firma, is an experience and a high, sometimes quite literally (see nitrogen narcosis), an escape into another realm. Some look to explore the visage of our past, while others marvel at the enormity and diversity of the blue and its inhabitants.

The Bay Islands are an exceptional spot to engage in scuba, for affordability as well as pristine coral reefs. Look to the hobbyist to protect his endeavor, which in this case is a large task, protecting the ocean.

Utila, just off the Caribbean coast of Honduras, is an original pirate settlement, with Caymanian and British Buccaneer blood running deep. Thus the creole language has its roots in Utila, now part of the Spanish country.



Divers share a bond simply because they have lived, albeit briefly in the sea, and marveled at the experience, something that can not be expressed in a few words.

Nicaragua

For years, Nicaragua was not included in the travelers itinerary when it came to Central America. Nicaragua is a country marred by natural disaster and political struggle, dating back to the Somoza regime and the Sandinist party, FSLN, which still resides today. However, it has emerged as a tourist destination in the past few years, and certainly has much to offer.

Isla de Ometepe on Lake Nicaragua is magical with its two volcanoes, mystically shrouded in the clouds.


The colonial gem of Granada, hearkens to the older times, a romantic, laid back feel.

Pura Vida

Pura vida, literally translated as pure life, signifies the laid back Tico mentality. Better translated as full of life, real living, or going great, it symbolizes an appreciation for the situation and surroundings. The saying reflects Costa Rica's geography as well: the Pacific swells provide great surf, the jungle holds a rich biodiversity, and the numerous volcanoes rise through the clouds.

It is inevitable that the country's tourism sector is as big as it is today. Both a blessing to the economy and a probable curse to environment, the Costa Rican people, or Ticos, are greatful for what they have.

The surf haven on the coast both coasts attracts surfers from all nationalities, while the rainforest and volcanoes call over the outdoorsmen, hikers and wildlife enthusiasts of all types. With a strong North American market for tourism, many Westerners have found it a suitable place to escape the hectic modern world, and reconnect with the natural world.

Playa Negra, Puerto Viejo


Arenal region


Red-eyed tree frog

Canals Skylines and Serenity

Panama, the southernmost country in Central America is famous for its canal and subsequently US connections. The canal itself, over 90 years old, is tantamount to shipping and transport across the Americas from Pacific to Atlantic and vice versa. Crossing over instead of around the landmasses means a lot of revenue for the country.

The thin isthmus is the thinnest piece of land between the continents, yet it is still 80km of locks, meaning 8 hours crossing time, from one side to the other. The whole procedure involves the filling of locks with fresh water and locomotive and tugboat action. Taxed by weight, the average for freighters and tankers to pass is $200-300 thousand dollars.


Along with a sophisticated canal, Panama city shows off a modern skyline, complete with skyscrapers and many more to come. However, being a Latinamerican country, the stratification of classes is also present, and slum areas are not disguisable.



Away from the city, one can escape the bustle and enjoy the Caribbean coast. The Bocas del Toro archipelago is a haven for surfers, beachcombers and anyone looking to kick their feet up and appreciate what nature has to offer. Yet another postcard place.

Cayos Zapatillas

Pirates of the Caribbean

The vast ocean will always lure the terrestrial man back towards the ocean. From there it is sink or float. The Caribbean Sea in particular has a history of pirate lore, of ugly, pistol bearing, rotting teeth, rum guzzling bandits, who lived and raided across the West Indies. Stories are passed down of treasure and islands, and or both. Mysterious places abound, with indigenous inhabitants peering stealthily from under cover.

To traverse the el Mar Caribe brings back the many images of the pirate days. Life on the boat was more simple. The goal was to get from point A to point B and experience what lies between. In modern times, the experience or journey has been forgotten, and in so doing, a depressed existence ensues. The ocean will always be humbling, and often reminds the sailor that the hard times will be the most rewarding.

In the future there will be just as much folk tale surrounding the Caribbean as in centuries past, as the area is still very well trafficked by all sorts of people with varying businesses from all walks of life. Simply put, it is the connecting point between the Americas and its landmasses, the ports have and will always be modes of transport.

To get from Colombia to Panama, one must travel over sea or by air, as the land is not navigable. Thus, anyone with true pirate spirit will choose the former option. This means a few nights on a boat, a bit of open ocean and a stop in the San Blas archipelago. Often people describe these islands as a picture of paradise, with turquoise water and coral reefs. Truly something to experience.





Shipwrecked


Dinner

Colombia

Since the perilous days of the 80s and 90s, Colombia has been reformed into what is now a different and safer country from what it once was. Tourism is just beginning to pick up, as police and military presence is better felt. The days of the violent drug wars are subsiding, leaving a country in the process of repair. However, the earlier days some 20-30 years back are also what gave Colombia some flavour and its remnants are still seen and witnessed throughout in major cities.

Beginning with Medellín, dwelling place of the fabled Pablo Escobar, when his drug cartels were a pivotal part of society. The city has much to offer, and is set to expand in the next decade, a new clean cut look with the architecture of old set amidst a culture of salsa. Many still knock on the walls of any and all buildings to check if the hoarded drug money of Escobar actually exists.

Next, Bogota, the huge capital, a sprawling urban city, alive with art and commerce. A city jam-packed with residents, and brewing in modernity, it maintains the Colombian flavour and lifestyle. It is the gateway to the rest of the country, making available the coasts and jungle.

Cartagena will always embody the ideal Colombian city. Its preserved architecture remains, including the city walls and fort that once warded off pirates. A romantic town, with horse and carriage still clicking up and down old town, Cartagena also offers a commercial sector with buildings reaching up to the sky.

The descriptions are of course inadequate, both because the writer doesn't know enough about the said cities and words are never sufficient to describe the 5 senses that one can absorb a city with. Thus, to add to the experience, a few pictures.

Medellin


Bogota


Cartagena

Life is a South American Highway

After more than 200 hours of bus time, the South American continent has been traversed, save for a few open miles of road. Traveling by bus in the south means a lot of movies, little to few road stops for food or to relieve oneself, Latin music played at a high volume, constant drop-offs and pick-ups of local passengers, and many nights on the road.

Of course, the luxury buses found in the southern cone are comparable to none, and embody comfort and class as best as possible on the open highway. Music becomes indispensable and a fully charged ipod can survive the majority of a 20hr ride. Yet most importantly, road travel provides the opportunity for a close look at the landscape and the small towns that lie between.

The views through the foggy window can only be described as breathtaking. South America means lots of coastline, sprawling desert, rolling hills, daunting mountains and plenty of steep drop-offs from highways which barely fit two full sized coaches. Nevertheless, the drivers who at times can are called fearless and aggressive are also alert and well aware.

Some bus shots

Crawling through the longitudinal span of Chile



Overlooking the Colombian jungle from a steep drop/off



The view across the Bolivian desert

Equatorial Divide

Ecuador, a country of beautiful landscapes, has been deemed worthy enough to receive the name denoting its presence in the middle of the earth, although other countries do lie on the said equator.



To be on the equator means a lot of things in physics terms, mostly dealing with opposing forces and effects. I could explain such concepts using my limited high school and university physics knowledge, but there is no need.



The point is, being situated between the north and the south makes water do cool things, causes all sorts of metereological effects, and pulls you in every which way.


The indigenous people realized the importance of their location well before anyone of th Westerners. The sun and stars told never lied, and told them much about their world.

As it is All Saint's Day, or the day after Halloween in North America, I will give my respects to the dead, saints and laymen included. In Ecuador, it is customary to drink Colada Morada, a fruity concoction which goes with sweet stuffed bread. Here's to all my loved ones.

Machu Picchu

The aptly named "Old Mountain" city has had a magical appeal since its rediscovery by the Western world in 1911. Of course it is most famous for its postcard view, one which thousands of tourists flock to daily at ungodly hours. What makes it so special, even after years of tourist demysticism is its magic and mystery that prevails, some 6 centuries after its construction.



Nevertheless, I will justify my having travelled to the other side of the world, taken a couple busses, a train, staying overnight in an overpriced town, and waking up at 3am to catch another bus to arrive early enough to get an exclusive stamp to climb Huayna Picchu for the day.

1. The ancient Incan city, home to the most brilliant minds of the Incans, was never touched by the Spaniards in their conquests.

2. To add further mystery, the city was never completed, with much evidence to prove it was abandoned.

3. The city is tucked in secretly amidst the mountains and jungle of the sacred valley, rich with resources surrounding it.

The condor shape of Machu from Huayna Picchu

Lago Titicaca

The highest navigable lake in the world, sitting at 3800m, is also the largest in South America. Lake Titicaca, once believed to be a sacred, inland sea by the Incans, is a marvel, straddling the border between Perú and Bolivia, South American countries with the highest per capita indigenous populations. It is not surprising that the ancient civilizations were in such reverence of the lake, with its sheer enormity, the sun rose and set along its horizon.

Argued to be the birthplace of the Incans, Sun Island sits on the lake, with many ruins alluding to its past. The lake is just another testament to Bolivia and Peru's geographical diversity, complete with desert, rainforest, mountains and the lake.

Bolivian Moonscape

Enter Bolivia from the southern Chile border and what you will find is an outer-worldly place, inhabitted solely by a few llama farmers. The Bolivian desert has the harshest of conditions, from subzero evenings to sweltering afternoons. Yet to traverse the region in a 4x4 allows one to marvel at the geography of the region. From deserts, to mineral lagoons of different colours, to mountains and volcanoes, as well as hot springs and geysers spewing black sulfur gas into the air. All of this is present at a breathtaking altitude of up to 4800m.

Let's not forget to mention the world famous Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest salt flat, at some 25m deep and 12000km squared.

In the end, the barren land teaches you to appreciate so much more the habitable land you call home, as well as develop a greater sense of awe for Earth.

The Atacama

Most Chileans from the central region, if asked, will claim that the south is much more beautiful than the north. This is a sensible conslusion to be made, as the mountains, lakes and skiing are world class the further south you stray. Furthermore, northern Chile contains only small copper mining towns.

However, a visit up north will reveal the beauty of the Atacama desert, and its cozy litle oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama. Full of artesans and desert treks, it is the best place in the world to do some star-gazing. It is the driest desert in the world; the low moisture content and little if any light pollution, make the night sky so much more clear.



My camera was no where near good enough to capture the real night sky. Zoom in.



A few pics from Santiago.

Bodegas

All wine connoisseurs know that Argentinian wine, particularly that which comes from the Mendoza vineyards, is among the best tasting and full-bodied in the world. Mendoza produces 75% of Argentinian wine.

Although it is a huge export, many vineyards are classic and family owned, only selling their product on site. The Cabernet Sauvignon, considered a man's wine in a machisto country, for its stronger flavour and spice, as well as the Malbec, the softer, yet just as flavourful wine are the main products of the vineyards, or bodegas.



The reserve 2004 Malbec. A good year.


American Oak Barrels

Andes

The longest continental mountain range in the world, the Andes are a marvel for their wildlife and varying cultures that inhabit its highlands. Crossing over from the Atlantic Coast to the Pacific Coast inevitably brings you to the Andes. And we will continue along the Cordillera for the next few weeks - Chile, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colomibia.

Mendoza - Santiago: a mere 225 mile trip which takes 7 hours, thanks to winding, steep roads, which provide an excellent view of the peaks.

Trivia Time

In the advent of finding a relatively fast internet connection, I have chosen to go upload happy on the pictures, as Buenos Aires will be perhaps the most modern site we'll visit before traversing the Andes.

Where was the first world cup held?
Montevideo, Uruguay - Estadio Centenario



Where is the world's widest avenue?
Avenida 9 de julio, Buenos Aires

Life after Death

The inherent controversy in this statement has many layers of complexity. From a broad perspective, there are two sides, but either side has its own layers of varying beliefs. Thus, I will not attempt to make my own debate, as better people than myself have already done so. However, I will underline the importance of the after-life in all major religions.

Though many have varying beliefs on what happens to a person after they pass, burial rights have always reflected the same idea - that the body must be made ready for a peaceful transition. The very act of burial is believed by some to be a ceremony which distinguishes us as humans. It symbolizes our consciousness, an awareness of our existence.

It is no surprise that we are willing to spend as much as we do on the burial of our loved ones. Nothing is too much to guarantee eternal rest. I however, do hope that the lavishness of that surrounds the deceased has no bearing on how they will fair after death. Very few can afford such first class treatment.

Apparently, as can be witnessed in La Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, these few do exist. Small marble houses, mini- chapels, multi level mausoleums. Many of the richest, but more importantly, famous, Argentinians lie here to rest.








Evita's Grave